By the 1870's, Tiffany had fallen below the spell of japonaiserie, forward with most of Europe. With input from its king designer, Edward C. Moore, Tiffany produced a hand-hammered triangular sterling-silver tray in the Japanese style with an carved spider's network and applied dragonfly, spider and foliage decorations in variously colored metal alloys. The tray, likewise in the show, endowed to the company's winning the Grand Prix for silverware at the 1878 Exposition Universelle in Paris.
In the 1890's Tiffany judged to chart extra "all-American" jewelry by incorporating substances original to the United States. The show boasts one of a handful of chrysanthemum brooches that Tiffany made using a spray of random white dog-tooth pearls from Mississippi.
LONDON — The impetus for "Bejewelled by Tiffany: 1837-1987," a show encompassing 150 annuals of Tiffany creativity that opened here at Somerset House on Saturday, began 4 years ago in Manhattan. It took basis while Fernanda Kellogg, premier of the Tiffany & Company Foundation, sat next to Lord Rothschild of England at a board conference of the Bard Graduate Center for Studies in the Decorative Arts.
cartier love Bracelets,,,Forum: Artists and ExhibitionsLord Rothschild, the sometime chairman of the Heritage Lottery Fund in Britain and now honorary president of the Gilbert Collection Trust at Somerset House, shared his idea with Timothy Stevens, the director of the Gilbert Collection. Mr. Stevens recommended an outsider to systematize the show: Clare Phillips, a curator who specializes in jewelry at the Victoria and Albert Museum, which has one of the world's largest jewelry accumulations.
"He said the history of Tiffany's was so nameless in the United Kingdom, he thought it would be magnetic to do something above it," Ms. Kellogg said.
"Both in silver and jewelry, Tiffany extracted from Japanese works of masterpiece the best Japanese techniques and use of embed," said Katherine Purcell, adviser of the London firm Wartski and a jewelry historian who contributed to the classify. "It was for silver work, no jewelry, namely Tiffany won its premier award at an worldwide manifestation; the scale of the mixed-metal pieces at the Paris fair in 1878 took folk by surprise."
The Tiffany show, which runs through Nov. 26 and namely sponsored by Tiffany & Company, namely full of revelations. The earth may be versed with Tiffany's signature blue carton and Audrey Hepburn's role as Holly Golightly in the movie "Breakfast at Tiffany's," but even few Americans know thatthe New York store originated as a modest "fantasy goods" emporium on lower Broadway.
Tiffany's great convenience was its gemologist, George Frederick Kunz, who sought out uncommon colored stones bring offNorth America: emeralds and rock crystal from North Carolina,You Can Put a Little Bit of Value along Wearing Replica Rolex Watches, diamonds from Virginia, topaz from Colorado, sapphires from Montana, yellow beryl from Connecticut and bombard opals from Mexico. The American pink stone shrieked kunzite was appointed in his credit in 1902. "Kunz individually went to the mines to buy the best stones for Tiffany," Ms. Phillips said.
"They are incredibly rare," Ms. Purcell said, noting that at that time pearls were as precious as diamonds. "Lillian Russell had one," she joined, referring to the actress and singer.
During the Civil War, for a proponent of the Union, Tiffany supplied regiments with badges, swords, guns and surgical instruments. The show includes a magnificent diamond-encrusted presentation sword made along Tiffany as a battle hero.
"Charles Lewis Tiffany was a real entrepreneur, a magnificent businessman prince," said Annamarie Sandecki, director of the archives at Tiffany & Company. "In the 1830's, for the first time, Americans had disposable proceeds and a large lust for elegance goods. He was competent to anticipate people's needs and desires before they knew what they were."
Certain 19th-century Americans were seduced by the aristocratic provenance of items at Tiffany. "In 1887, when the French crown jewels came up for sale, Tiffany bought a third of them," Ms. Phillips said. "Just as it had in 1878, when Tiffany bought some of the Spanish crown jewels, including a parure set with yellow diamonds that Isabella II once owned. It was all about the provenances for the stones, not just the size."
Most notable are the enameled orchid needles from the 1880's and 90's by Tiffany's in-house designer G. Paulding Farnham. "Each orchid was based on a nice botanical watercolor," Ms. Phillips said. "Farnham was working from life."
,,,,,cartier love,cartier love Pendants,"Tiffany built the earliest known mail-order catalogs," Ms. Phillips said.
Nature also became a theme in Tiffany jewelry. There is a decanter in the fashion of a squid with a diamond eye; an iris brooch soaked with sapphires; and pins that approximate purple blossoms and daisies.
What Americans ambitioned then were diamonds. In the exhibition catalog, John Loring, design director at Tiffany, writes about a spectacular pellet staged for the Prince of Wales, the hereafter Edward VII, at the Academy of Music in New York in 1860. He quotes from a newspaper account of the event, with Mrs. Edwin D. Morgan, wife of the ruler of New York, beginning the pellet "in a cloud of crepe living with diamonds" from Tiffany.
In 1837 Charles Lewis Tiffany (1812-1902) and his educate chum John Burnett Young opened a cache to sell fine stationery, soap, parasols, a bit of jewelry and novelties, mostly European imports. By 1845 they had created "Blue Books," catalogs that allowed people all overthe country to mandate goods.
The New York mart also sold souvenirs, including one in the show: a microscopic partition of iron wire that commemorated the arranging of the first trans-Atlantic cable in 1858. Cost? 50 cents.
Charles Tiffany, nicknamed "the throne of diamonds," surely was the one who gained the fancy-yellow 128-carat Tiffany Diamond that is still at Tiffany. It is shown in London with a small, bejeweled bird sitting on altitude.
By 1850 Tiffany had established a Paris branch under the leadership of a Boston shareholder and jeweler, Gideon Reed. He cleverly bought up heaps of diamonds from panic-stricken aristocrats behind the abdication of King Louis-Philippe in 1848.
"The Gilbert Collection had to amass the group for the Tiffany show, and Clare had a fresh viewpoint," Ms. Kellogg said. Ms. Phillips wrote the parts on jewelry for the V & A's recent exhibitions on Art Nouveau, Art Deco and International Arts and Crafts.
But these orchids have diamonds set into them. Like entire Tiffany productions "after ecology," they were not to be confused with the real entity.
No comments:
Post a Comment